Cheek review


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The meals is barbecue. Roughly. If squinted at by mod-everything glasses it is barbecue that appropriates parts from in every single place else. There are prawn crackers dusted in smoky barbecue salt, a tartare with Korean pickle, mapo tofu empanadas with a tonkatsu-style bulldog sauce. third of the menu is vegetarian and greater than half is gluten-free. These are the plates of our lives.

The crew is attentive and eager to point out you a superb time, and the room is buzzy, particularly now spring is heating up and the breeze blows in by wonderful haircuts by way of the massive industrial home windows. However sizzling tip: Preserve your culinary expectations dialled to free-wheeling. Flavour-wise no less than, we’re coping with a Baz Luhrmann degree of subtlety.

Excellently crisp prawn crackers with smoky mud are innocuous sufficient and gone in a snap. However then, it is on. That Japanese-Chinese language-South American empanada filling of aged pork mince and agency tofu is misplaced to the buttery pastry and bulldog sauce, which is as intensely natural and medicinal as Fernet Branca. The plum tartare is not. As a substitute it is a medley of rough-cut beef, pickled nashi pear and pinenuts whose predominant and lasting flavour is sesame oil.

Finest and brightest on discipline goes to eggplant smoked right down to caviar, lifted with a spicy, vinegary dressing and thatches of contemporary coriander, to scoop up with (barely squeaky) roti.

Plum tartare.

Plum tartare.Credit score:Jason South

Past, brace your style buds. And your girdle. The menu has began because it means to go on in a salty, saucy, high-octane journey of grilled and smoked and dry-aged meats.

Each certainly one of them is every week on the gymnasium on a plate and a gallon of water or beer on the aspect. A strong inch of cured bacon topped with a lacy fried egg could be a particular. Dry-aged duck, cleaved into snappy-skinned sections, is pink fleshed however paired with smoked hoisin and leeks that appear so as to add extra salt than distinction.

Cheek's Millenial pink and gold staircase.

Cheek’s Millenial pink and gold staircase.Credit score:Jason South

The Dexter import of a well-marbled wobbly rib-eye is sweet, as is the feel of bone marrow mash, however once more, the gravy appears to have had a heavy slip of the shaker.

Order as properly and as evenly as attainable. Meaning sure to the stack of crisp cos leaves, even when the caesar dressing is tacky. It is also a thumbs as much as candy beets and tart buttermilk. Contemporary.

Brioche ice-cream with parsnip crisps.

Brioche ice-cream with parsnip crisps.Credit score:Jason South

It is a suppose twice to the intensely creamy, barely frozen brioche ice-cream topped with fried parsnip curls. Oof.

Then once more, should you’re right here anticipating well being or the excessive finish of eating, you are barking up the fallacious glowing staircase. Settle for the cheeky apple pie moonshine shot as a parting gesture, take your selfie on the steps and contemplate this a part of your so-hot-right-now checklist ticked.

Rating 13/20

Handle Stage 1, 301 Swanston Avenue, Melbourne, 03 9994 8582,

Open Tue-Sat 5pm-midnight

Vegetarian third of the menu

Drinks Minimal intervention wines, principally native craft beers and spirits

Value Snacks $Four-$9; small plates $16-$19; massive $37-$75

Go-to dish Bacon and egg rib $19.

Professional tip An upstairs bar is coming quickly.

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