I began with the scallops and – thanks, fellow diner! – they had been certainly good: flambeed, souped up with a sauce of cream and glowing wine, dotted with vinegared beetroot. The scallops had been candy and pert however the sauce is the factor. You will most likely do as I did and slurp each final drop from a shell tipped mouthwards, eyes raised to heaven.
Duck, or canard, as they are saying in Le Brighton, is threaded by means of the menu. Duck liver was the idea of a basic pate, dolloped on the plate then topped with brandied caramelised onions. Housemade brioche was available, rounding out a superb entree: the pate wealthy and easy, the bread outrageously buttery.
There’s at all times a canard predominant course. On my go to it was duck leg, gently confited in duck fats, then roasted till the pores and skin was shiny and crisp, served with a correct crimson wine sauce, closely decreased, gleaming and deeply flavoured with duck jus. The accompanying farro was cooked in duck inventory too, tying the dish collectively. Many 1000’s of confit duck legs are served on daily basis all over the world; this model is best than the overwhelming majority of them. And we’re not finished with duck but! Duck fats is used to roast potatoes to a thrillingly golden and crunchy crisp. Le swoon.
Desserts work the French-with-a-twist method. Orre at all times has a creme brulee on the menu nevertheless it is likely to be flavoured with rosewater and pistachio or fig and pomegranate. Crepes are a specialty and a spotlight, made with stoneground flour and free-range eggs and cooked to order to a supple lacy-ness. Classics reminiscent of chocolate or suzette (brandied orange) are plate-lickingly widespread however there are additionally flight-of-fancy specials like crepes with blue cheese, walnut and truffled honey.
Rosalin Virnik backed away from a profession in mainstream meals manufacturing to open Curly Whiskers. Disillusioned with large meals’s compromises and penny-pinching squeezes, she and her husband made the gutsy choice to run a restaurant that honours natural, free-range and heirloom produce, and switch it into cautious, handmade, heart-touched dishes. Operating a small restaurant will not be straightforward however Curly Whiskers has discovered an uncommon stability between welcoming domesticity and effective eating. Hungry visitors are the winners.